Up, up and away

So, Puno - what a fabulous place. Small, noisy, crowded, dusty but still fabulous. As I sit here in an internet cafe I can see a man inserting bicycle spokes into a wheel (basically making it from scratch) while chatting to his mate, there's Andean pipe music in the background (and not cover versions of pop songs), the sun is shining, it's hot and I've just escaped from the festival. Yes, another festival. This one is the Festival del Virgen de Calendaria (I think). I don't really know what it's about but there are brass bands, dancers in costumes and a general feeling of goodwill and fun. The festival actually started on Friday night and hasn't stopped since. I have some photos which I hope to upload today but don't hold your collective breaths.

On Friday I did a half day excursion to Sillustani where there are pre-inca funerary towers, mostly destroyed or badly damaged by the Spanish invaders but some of which have been partially reconstructed. There are three basic types, those with polished stones (like Machu Picchu), those with carved but unpolished stones and those with rough-hewn stones. The towers went up to 12 metres high and would contain between 6 and 12 bodies (in the fetal position) from a single family. The construction would seem to depend on the status of the family.

Yesterday I went onto Lake Titikaka (or Titicaca and which is supposed to be pronounced 'te te ha ha'). First we went to the floating islands - literally islands made of totora reeds woven together and replenished every month - where several Uro families live permanently, following centuries old traditions. The Uro live by three simple principles 'Do not steal', 'Do not be idle', 'Do not lie' which have been handed down since Inca times. There are no full-blood Uro left but the traditions have been preserved.

The floating islands were most peculiar, like walking on a waterbed. You didn´t want to stand too long in the same place because you started to feel like you were sinking into the island (although they are actually up to four metre thick, so the chances of going through are slim to nonexistent). There are about 35 islands but you can only visit those where the family group has agreed to receive tourists (and then only on a guided tour really). We actually took a 'taxi' reed boat across from one island to another - very quiet and peaceful.

In the afternoon we took our motorboat to Talquile Island (a real island, made of rock and everything). This was hard work for me. Not only were we over 4,000 metres above sea level but we had to walk to the top of the island for lunch. We went up the 'shortcut', a rough-paved path which took the young/fit/healthy about 25 minutes and me forever. Luckily I had borrowed a trekking pole and that's how I made it. Lunch was simple but delightful and then we had to walk down. Walk down 540 steps. 540 rough carved, not levelled, varying widthed steps. In my heart and mind I feel about 17, yesterday afternoon I felt about 97. My legs were shaking, my heart was pumping, I felt sick - you know what I mean, the feeling you get when you finish a marathon - well that was me. However it was worth it, if only to say I've done it.

The people who live on the island (pronounced te kil er) are farmers and fishers and follow centuries old traditions especially in what they wear. The men wear 'santa claus' caps which they knit themselves and the caps are symbols of their social status. Half red and half white means the man is unmarried, red and blue stripes mean he is married, brown or black indicates some form of authority as does the traditional pointed cap with earflaps. A man's sons wear the same cap as him until they are old enough to knit their own. The women wear the thick, many-layered, circular skirts and a black poncho. Each poncho has a pom-pom at it's four corners. Big pom-poms mean she is unmarried and small ones mean she is married. There are various other indications to do with belts and bags but I can't remember them. Normally, I'd redirect you to Wikipedia at this point but the site doesn't seem to be working so you'll have to find it for yourselves.

The lake itself is incredibly clear and cool. So with the sun beating down from above (and at that altitude there isn't much atmosphere to block it out) and the cool, clear lake below we took the peaceful three hour cruise back to Puno. I was exhausted but happy.

UPDATE
I've just re-read this and corrected the mistakes. Also here is the link to Wikipedia. Enjoy