Who's a pretty boy, then?

I've now uploaded all the photos I took while snorkelling on the GBR. There are many that are fuzzy and out of focus, many that seem to contain nothing except water and even a couple with a horrible blue-skinned monster wearing goggles and a mask - you have been warned.

This, however, is my favourite photo, you can see the Parrot fish just about to launch an attack on the coral.



The Parrot fish is so-named, not because it imitates human speech, but for it's brightly hued skin and pointy mouth. As you can imagine, if it eats coral it must have teeth and a good strong bite - I wouldn't want to get in its way!

I'm walking on sunshine...

Hello again

Sorry I've not updated for a couple of days but I've been busy doing things. Such as rainforest walks, beach walks, walking where the rainforest meets the great barrier reef across a white sand beach - you know the sort of thing I mean.

I went up the coast to Port Douglas and Cape Tribulation for a few days and snorkelled on the GBR a couple of times more. I finally found Nemo but I didn't have a camera so I couldn't papp him. I did hire a camera later so I'll be uploading loads of fuzzy, out of focus, empty of fish, underexposed photos at some point. The problem is I'm both short and long sighted (stupid, I know) so when I wear a prescription mask for long-sightedness I can see the fish and coral much more clearly but I can't see what's showing on the camera screen - there's a lot of guesswork involved!

In the latest news from here, I've finally booked my flight back to Europe. I'll be flying into Milan on the morning of 28th May, just over a month from now and then onto the UK a couple of weeks after that.

On Wednesday I fly to New Zealand for three weeks. And here's the ridiculous thing, I didn't really want to visit Australia as it didn't appeal to me that much. I really, really wanted to visit New Zealand and see the magnificent scenery, chill out in the small hospitable towns and bathe in the hot springs. What has actually happened is that I've spent about six or seven weeks in Australia (nowhere near enough) and I'll only be spending three weeks in New Zealand. Isn't life weird?

I'll be shipping my souveniers while I'm in Melbourne (before I fly out) and they'll probably arrive a few weeks after I do so it'll be like revisiting the holiday all over again.

In the meantime, people, make sure the sun starts shining in Europe as I don't want to be cold when I get there!

Poetry in motion...

I'm in Port Douglas, just a couple of hours (and a 20% increase in humidity) north of Cairns. This is where the rich and famous hang out - not that I've seen anyone rich or famous yet... maybe they look just like you and me???

Today I went koala and 'roo hunting, not literally hunting as I don't believe in that sort of thing and I didn't actually have to 'go' anywhere except the local wildlife sanctuary (The Rainforest Habitat) but I stroked and scratched a koala (and had my photo taken with him) then followed some kangaroos around their paddock.

Kangaroos are actually one of a group of animals called Macropods (literally 'big foot'). The group includes Kangaroos (Red, Eastern Grey, Western Grey and Tree Kangaroos - I kid you not, they climb trees), Wallabies (Black, White, Red-necked, Striped, Bushy-tailed, Nail-tail), Bettongs, Pademelons and Potoroos. Some are little bigger than a rabbit and others as tall as me with all variations in between. The one thing they have in common is how cute they are.

While I was sitting by their feeding station waiting for the Emus to stop hogging the food, something set the 'roos off and I was lucky enough to see them bounding from one side of the paddock to the other, through the trees and around the water (don't be mislead by the word paddock, they have plenty of room). Interestingly enough, most of the time they do this four legged thing whereby they lean on their forepaws and bring their hind legs up, dragging their tails behind them but when they hop, they are poetry in motion.

I also saw a shedload of birds and some crocodiles and had a couple of excellent (and free) guided tours. The whole thing was well worth the money.

Bad news for the day, though, is that I can't find the USB cable for my camera so I won't be uploading any photos for a while. Good news, though, is that I've got all those memory cards I bought for the Galapagos Islands - about 1,000 photos worth so let's hope New Zealand isn't too pretty!

Bobbing along, bobbing along on the bottom of the beautiful, briney sea...

Today I went to the Great Barrier Reef. Well, to be honest, only one island in the Great Barrier Reef which, in total, is 2,300 km long (so I couldn't do it all even if I wanted to - could you imagine how wrinkled my fingers would be at the end of it?).

The island is called Normanby Island and is part of the Frankland Islands. Normanby Island was originally a coral reef which was dstroyed through natural causes, the coral decayed to sand and other soil, vegetation floated in (or was carried by birds) and an island was born. It is still surrounded by coral reef, both soft and hard coral and, of course, where you get coral you get fish. Parrot fish (very colourful and seem to use their fins like wings), damsel fish (small, bright blue and very easily scared), sweetlips fish (with Mick Jagger's mouth), box fish (very square) and fusilliers (the first in there when there's food to be had).

I also saw a turtle resting on the coral and, during the island walk, held a spiney starfish (long, thin, Jerry Hall legs) and barnacle covered crab (small but with sharp feet). We even saw a whole host of sea cucumbers (which don't look at all like cucumbers).

In the afternoon I went snorkelling on my own and I now believe the art of a good snorkel is floating silently. Once you've been there for a couple of minutes the locals ignore you and swim around you, up close and personal, seeing you as just another animal to be avoided. I didn't take my camera today as I wanted a photo-free day (sometimes you just have to stop seeing the world through the lens) but the next time I go out to the GBR I will be taking one of those disposable underwater cameras.

Next time I actually hope to find Nemo.

Time after time

When I arrived in Cairns (which the Australians pronounce Kanz) I only intended to spend a couple of days here. I thought a quick trip out to the Great Barrier Reef would be enough - after all, what else is there on offer?

Unfortunately I believe the weather is conspiring against me. The wind has been extremely strong today (it blew my polystyrine cup of tea over) and is forecast to get stronger. So much so that even if the boats are running out to the reef, visibility will be limited. However I have discovered a lot of other things to do to fill the time until I fly to New Zealand (30th April) so it's gone from two days to two weeks. I will be going to the rainforest, the reef, an island, a butterfly sanctuary and, possibly, a koala park (me want to cuddle).

I will be returning to the UK at some point... promise.

The tracks of my tears...

In the spirit of doing something new every day and doing something that scares you on a regular basis, I flew to Cairns this morning, booked into the hostel then went and had some of my hairy parts waxed. Hence the title.

To cheer up those of you in shock, here's a nice soothing picture...



Ok, I didn't really cry and it was an interesting experience. The beautician was only 18 years old but she knew her stuff and kept me talking throughout the more wincey parts.

There won't be any more details so you can relax now dad.

Margate, Tasmania

Margate, Tasmania
Originally uploaded by Shiralee Matthews

Tired of hanging around the hostel, pottering around Hobart and pigging out in the chippie (more later), yesterday I went on a day trip to Bruny Island. Somewhere at the bottom of Tasmania, where the Tasman Sea meets the Southern Ocean, there is an island. And people live there (ok, not at the bit where the sea and the ocean meet). And this was where Captain Cook and Captain Bligh - yes, him from the mutiny on the Bounty - used to come to restock their boats, although not at the same time.

Anyway, to get there we had to drive south east from Hobart going through the small township of Margate which, according to our driver/guide, consists of a church, a general store, a hardware store, a bottleshop (aka off licence) and a bar - much like the original then! From there to the ferryport and across to Bruny Island itself. Like all of Tasmania, it is a beautiful place with plenty of wildlife, including the Wallaby - a lovely creature with absolutely no road sense at all - in both it's grey and white forms.

Anyhow, after a quick stop for a reviving cup of tea and a blueberry muffin, we were off on a three hour boat trip. Didn't I make it clear I was going on a boat trip? Well how else would I have been able to go to the place where the Tasman Sea meets the Southern Ocean? (I don't know, some people...)

We were extremely lucky with the weather, bright sunshine and a millpond sea (relatively speaking). We saw caves, blowholes, sealions, albatross, gannets, other birds whose names I don't remember and Whitebreasted Sea Eagles. No-one was sick and no-one fell overboard. As usual the guides where excellent, Aussies have a great sense of humour, and well informed. Back at the departure point we all took a while to get our land legs back, wobbling all over the place as we strolled back to the cafe for lunch (pumpkin soup and smoked salmon roll with tea/coffee and locally produced fudge, for those who are interested), Then back to the ferryport with a stop off at the local cheese factory so I could buy some cheese (Mmmm, cheese). I got back to the hostel at about 6pm and, considering I'd done nothing but sit in a bus, cafe or on a boat, I was knackered.

However, I was determined to have some fish and chips for tea. I'd been looking forward to fish and chips all week, Saving up fish and chips for Saturday night. Do you understand how much I wanted those fish and chips? Well, do you??? I went to a local chippie with eat-in facilities, aptly called 'fish frenzy' where I ordered the 'fish frenzy' (scallops, calamari, three small pieces of different types of fish all breadcrumbed and served with chips). And I was enjoying just sitting there drinking my beer waiting for the food when the families arrived.

Now, bear in mind that the chippie was packed (I'd had to fight for a seat). It was Saturday night and people of all ages, backgrounds, shapes and sizes were squashed into this place, and yet... and yet I could still hear the shrill, middle-class, English mummy organising the broods. Her voice carrying over the general hubbub, like fingernails down a blackboard. Two families each with three children (why can't they stop at two?) named Arabella, Henry, Isadora, Tom (and two others) which she proceeded to position on a bench overlooking where I was sitting while she and the other parents bagged a table a long, long way away. Ok the children didn't scream, shout or fight (like working class kids) but they did shove, pick their noses and talk at great length in very loud voices about nothing in particular whilst complaining that there wasn't enough ketchup* and the fish tasted funny. In VERY loud voices. What is it about middle-class children? Is it that because mummy and daddy hang onto their every word, they assume that everything they have to say is rivetting to everyone in their vicinity? Is this where their overwhelming confidence comes from? Ok, enough of this. My 'fish frenzy' was great and I went back to the hostel and slept like a log.


* they serve condiments here in little plastic containers which you squeeze in half to force the sauce out of a hole in the middle, very ingenious and much less messy than the sachets we're used to.

99 bottles of beer on the wall...

Cascades Brewery
Originally uploaded by Shiralee Matthews

In my ongoing attempt to try all the best things in life, I went to the Cascades Brewery yesterday. I'd been told it was an easy 30-45 min walk from the hostel and, as the day was fine and sunny, off I trotted. 90 minutes later, hot and sweaty after the mainly uphill walk, I arrived.

The tour lasted just over an hour and was very interesting - I can see why people brew their own beer now - and the place smelled wonderful either malty or fresh beer-y

After the tour (which included the bottling plant - see other photos) we had the tasting. We could sample up to three different beers, although the samples were only about a third of a pint, so I tried the Premium Lager, the Pale Ale and the Stout. I have to say the stout is wonderful, a rich coffee chocolate taste.

The thing is, I overslept and therefore didn't have any breakfast before my 90 minute walk in the hot sun and my 70 minute tour of the brewery. When we came to the sampling I was extremely thirsty (even though I had finished a bottle of water) and I had to exercise extreme discipline in not necking the samples. As it was, I did end up ever-so slightly tired and emotional but not so much that I didn't take advantage of the special offer of six bottles of beer in their own cooler for $22.

Coffee-chocolate stout, second only to strawberry ice-cream as man's greatest invention.

The night has a thousand eyes

Despite having been on the road now for nearly four months, I'm still a relative newcomer to this travelling malarky and I still have stuff to learn.

In Argentina I learned to listen carefully when being given the spiel about trips and tours, especially the bits about going up and downhill on foot (doesn't mean I don't do it, just that I'm prepared).

In Chile I learned to carry a big green permanent marker to write on all my food (that is food stored in the fridge) so that if some sneaky git decided to steal it they'd end up with green ink all over their hands and no excuse - you can't miss green marker.

In Peru I learned that sometimes it isn't worth haggling - the fifty pence I'm saving could be a meal to them.

In Ecuador I learned that speaking up does quieten a roomful of Americans who would prefer to watch Friends to CSI (I won - don't know if it was my age, my natural [ha!] authority or the fact that no-one had ever challenged them before).

Dormitory Privacy
Originally uploaded by Shiralee Matthews

And now here in Tasmania, Australia I've learned how to create a little privacy in a dorm.

These scarves have been scarves, skirts, tops, towels, cushions, hats, sunshields, and now privacy screens. I knew it was worth bringing them.

Please allow me to introduce myself...

Just a quick post today. I have taken sup with the Devil.

Sounds good (or perhaps bad would be better) doesn't it? Of course, I'm referring to the Tasmanian Devil, one of the cutest animals I've come across. Bundles of energy, very like dogs in their attitude but don't let them bite you, you'll lose a limb as their jaws are strong enough to bite through bone which they crunch up and swallow. However, their fur is incredibly soft and they are very inquistive.

Other animals I've touched today, grey kangaroo (soft and sweet), common wombat (coarse and tough). Animals I've seen from a distance, koala (very sleepy), emus (big and scary), monkeys (who insist on turning their backs to me) and a million and one different types of parrot, parakeet, budgie, dove, macaw etc.

Photos will follow at some point (when I can find an internet cafe with a fast connection).

I'm walking, yes indeed and I'm talking...

I do believe I'm back in Kansas, Toto.

Ok, not Kansas but definitely in ye olde Englande. I've been in Launceston for four days now (and I've extended my stay by yet another night) and I would swear I was in Kent. The weather, dad, is decidedly chilly but not horrible.

The day before yesterday I went to Cradle Mountain and walked around Dove Lake. The guide, Axel, was well informed and he and I had an interesting conversation about life, the universe and everything. There were seven of us on the walk and mostly it was in single file. We got to see some unusual (for me) vegetation, although we were all getting annoyed by the two young women who insisted on walking at the head of the file and then stopping every five yards to ask daft questions. My favourite quote from them... "This looks like a Swedish tree" - maybe it was carrying it's passport (please don't tell me there is a tree called the Swedish tree). Unfortunately it rained almost non-stop, varying between a light drizzle and torrential downpours. On the few occasions that it did stop raining we were still splattered by water from the trees. And with rain comes the absence of wildlife, although we did see some wombat poo and some wallaby poo (I didn't take any photos).

Yesterday was bright and sunny, so what did I do? I stayed in the hostel, did my washing and avoided a cold. I did go out for a walk around town in the afternoon, though.

Today I planned to go up the gorge but somehow I forgot my map and ended uup in town in the internet cafe - ah well, maybe tomorrow. Talking of which I'm going to a wildlife park to see the Tasmanian Devils and maybe even feed them - now that should be interesting.